November 29-December 7, 2014
For André’s birthday, we went to the tropical paradise where he had had one of his first flying jobs. Phoenix to Dallas to Providenciales was not a bad flight itinerary.
Just in case you get a little hungry on a DFW layover, Papasitto’s has a restaurant as well as a convenient walk-up window, at the latter of which you can order a quick burrito or tamale to take on the plane ride.
The Pappas brothers are legendary restauranteurs in Houston, Texas, so you can rely on good quality.
Day 1, Saturday, November 29
We arrived in Providenciales on a very rainy, steamy Saturday. Going through immigration was rather amusing.
My husband engaged in a longer-than-normal conversation with the officer as they caught up on all the locals whom they mutually knew, including André’s former boss (who perished in an aeroplane crash), scooter rental company owners, and a smattering of bar tenders.
Taking a rental car, we drove to the Ocean Club Resort on Grace Bay, where we rented a condominium. Our one-bedroom suite was spectacular. We really got lucky with the unit’s owners’ taste in decor and furnishings; other condos in the resort were far from this nice.
Unit 4202 (they are all individually owned) had a fully appointed kitchen, laundry machines, sitting room, a very comfortable king-size bed, plenty of closet and drawer space, and a massive, screened-in veranda, with both an alfresco dining suite and a lounge area, as well as a full view of the beach and Caribbean Sea.
The floor-to-ceiling, nearly wall-to-wall glass sliding doors afforded a breath-taking view even inside. Before heading to dinner, we took in the elements, sitting on the veranda and listening to the waves gently crashing on the beach below.
On the Ocean Club property, amid a few small shops and a short walk from our second-story condo, was Opus Restaurant.
It came highly recommended and lived up to its reputation. The ambiance was inviting and relaxing, and the service was excellent.
The bar lounge was roudy, in a friendly way; the dining room was dark but cosy; and the patio was adorned with plenty of foliage and strings of white lights for a lovely ambiance.
We started with lobster summer rolls for an appetiser, followed by conch curry and Mahi ratatouille, all of which were very nice, as was the Gabianno Pinot Grigio that we chose to pair with the fish and shellfish.
André, having lived in Provo in the past, was determined to try a conch dish each day of our vacation.
Our waitress was kind enough to share with us that we missed the island’s annual Conch Festival by one day! It is held on the fourth Friday of every November. Next time, we will plan accordingly.
Day 2, Sunday, November 30
We had breakfast on our veranda from goods we purchased at the grocery store the day before. Graceway Gourmet, a short drive or bike ride away, is bright, modern, clean, and stocked with most expected grocery items plus wine, liquor, and prepared hot meals.
On this partly sunny, rather windy day, we drove to South Port. Once past the industrial port, the pavement gave way to a rock road where owners of large private villas had the southern beach to themselves. There was no public access.
Just north of South Dock, Las Brisas Restaurant is a nice spot for drinks or a meal on the marina overlooking Chalk Sound.
It has two decks and ample seating for intimate as well as large parties. There are quite a few quaint hotels and condominiums in the vicinity, but for us, it’s Grace Bay all the way!
We opted for lunch at the north marina on Turtle Cove. Sharkbites is a typical Caribbean, very rustic cantina that is a favourite of the locals.
I finally sat at the place where, years ago, André saw a shark swimming under the wooden deck.
The Cobb Salad lacked hard-boiled eggs but was still really nice, and the chicken wings were very good. The service was so-so at this once-hot spot, but the piece de résistance, the thing that is worth the visit just for it, is the amazing banana daiquiri.
I wouldn’t recommend driving after having had more than one! The flavour and freshness were superb, and that extra splash of TCI rum on top of the frozen concoction made it WOW!
The area surrounding Sharkbites and Turtle Cove Marina has a couple of other restaurants, a boardwalk connecting bike and scooter rental shops, and boating excursion operators.
To the north, across the channel bridge, are residential areas. Perfect to explore on foot or by two-wheeled transport.
Back at Ocean Club Resort, we explored the property and borrowed some movies from the library for a quiet evening later on. Ocean Club West, the twin property to our Ocean Club, is a short drive, or as we did, a 10-minute walk along the pristine beach.
As we traipsed the wide strand, we passed the tiny Craft Market Bar, which was packed, a very run-down-looking Club Med with a seemingly abandoned beachfront, and four or five other seafront resorts.
OCW’s beach restaurant has an all-you-can-eat seafood night once per week. We made reservations but cancelled them and opted for something less gluttonous.
There is a very laid-back, beach-side restaurant named Cabana Bar at The Ocean Club Resort. Appearances are deceiving. During the day, sunbathers come off the beach and eat at Cabana Bar in their swimming attire.
The unassuming, casual atmosphere disguises the quality of the food. Under a beautiful sky, listening to the waves dance upon the shore amid a background of soft reggae music, André had a beef burger, which he said was just as lovely as he remembered from 17 years ago.
I had the linguini and lobster in vodka cream. The food and the service were surprisingly excellent. Off to a night cap and a movie!
Day 3, Monday, December 1
Awaking to a partly cloudy day, following our morning walk on the beach, we decided to explore one of the shopping districts. Having skipped breakfast, we had lunch when normal humans do.
Danny Bouy’s (not a typo) restaurant on the main road of the Salt Mill district is casual, somewhat of a sports bar, and has a hybrid smokey casino in the back. It’s a good meeting spot for a shopping and browsing day. The menu was decent, and the service was very polite and friendly.
The owners, Cemone and Roger Oberg, are Minnesota transplants, and she (more jovial than he) sings at the bar during the evenings.
After sharing a serving of Conch Fritters (which were lovely, flash-fried corn-bread balls with chunks of conch meat and a raspberry vinaigrette dipping sauce) and savouring the local beers, we explored the shops in the area.
There were stores with typical tourist trinkets, beachwear and T-shirt shops, craft boutiques, local ceramics and other artists’ creations, and a shop run by a local rum distillery.
Many of the shops carry the same items at different prices. The TCI (Turks and Caicos Islands) Rum Cake and Ghost Pepper Sauce, which we later found out were more expensive at the Graceway grocery store, Ditto for wine and fruit. Generally, I would recommend the Salt Mill area as the best for shopping in Providenciales.
We returned to OC just in time to catch the daily 3 p.m. rain shower. Today we encountered a massive downpour, so it was home-made banana daiquiris on the veranda for us until the two-hour-long deluge subsided.
Not wanting to wander far in the threatening weather, we returned to the Cabaña Bar at the resort. Seated under an umbrella, we still got soaked three more times with teaming torrants, as we enjoyed Free Monday Rum Punch, delightful live music, and the most amazing Cracked Conch that you will find on Providenciales.
It was unimaginably tender and had a mild oyster taste. The accompanying coleslaw was ordinary, but the pommes frites were perfect.
The fish and chips were spectacular. Today’s catch was grouper, cooked to perfection. Grouper! How lucky I could be! It was succulent, flaky, and sweet, accompanied by those perfect fries and tartar sauce.
I will never be able to order fish and chips in the US again! We had so much fun that night that being drenched by the now-saturated umbrella didn’t phase us one bit.
Our waitress, Kayonn, was delightful, endearing, and just a love! She took great care of us on multiple occasions during our lovely journey.
Day 4, Tuesday, December 2
Happy Birthday, my darling, honeybunny, and André! Our beach day was blessed by a cloudless sky, endless sunshine, and a delicate breeze.
From the Ocean Club Resort beach, we walked and walked along the sparkling, tawny sand until we came upon empty lots, private villas, and entirely secluded stretches of sun-soaked shore.
Upon returning to our beach, we lounged under our salmon-coloured parasol, laughed, read, and chatted over a pitcher of André’s sublime Piña Coladas!
If you rent a condominium with a kitchen in Providenciales, you can easily stock your freezer with frozen fruit pulps from Graceway Gourmet. It didn’t take much effort to find pure purées that were free of high-fructose corn syrup and artificial ingredients.
We found pineapple, mango, coconut, banana, piña colada, and other blends at very reasonable prices. What was shockingly expensive everywhere on the island were the fresh fruits.
For André’s big birthday dinner, we soiréd in style at Coco Bistro. This was alfresco dining par excellence. I recommend at least one dinner here during a visit to Provo.
The lightly drizzling rain threatened, but we still opted for the outdoor over inside seating. The restaurant owner, from Brampton, Ontario, has done a spectacular job of creating a chic menu and a warm, romantic ambiance.
Amid the myriad of swaying coconut palms, an exceptional culinary feast awaits diners. Make reservations.
Our waiter, Ricco, was so attentive and obliging. Upon a mild 30-second sprinkle, he promptly offered an umbrella and, for birthday dessert, a complimentary mango-papaya sorbet! Ricco also summoned Stuart Grey, the owner and chef, to our table to chat.
A nice fellow who came from Canada fell in love with the lifestyle and never left. That seemed to be a common theme in Provo.
In fact, it seemed as though a large percentage of retail businesses were owned by foreigners.
We started with Conch Two Ways. One was a ceviche, nicely presented in a martini glass; the other was sweet and sour. A brut Avilla prosecco was the perfect complement.
For our main courses, we were treated to blackened mahi with red Thai curry and mango chutney and grilled lobster served with rice and drawn butter.
Both dishes were prepared to perfection: tender, mouthwatering, and exploding with flavour! The Nubilla Sauvignon Blanc (Marlboro, New Zealand) went rather nicely with the complex palates on our table.
All in all, this was an unforgettable dining experience and a perfect day.
Day 5, Wednesday, December 3
Except for a sliver of sunshine in the morning, the skies over Grace Bay were overcast all day long. Luckily, the threat of rain never materialised.
A morning drive led us to explore the Blue Hills area, which lies towards the northwest of the island. It is a mostly residential area dotted with modest homes, a few small groceries, and more churches than schools.
One of the original settlements on the islands, Blue Hills still maintains a rustic old-world Caribbean charm. The scenic seaside road meanders for about 2–3 miles from the turnoff at Millennium Highway.
Along the way, you’ll see some of the original homes built on Provo (many painted in bright, bold Caribbean colours), old churches and cemeteries, craft markets peddling native-made goods, roadside food stands, and native sloops skipping across the surf.
We had lunch at Hemingway’s at The Sands Resort. It wasn’t horrible, but certainly our least favourite dining experience in Providenciales. I told the owner, Terry, that a restaurant named after the legendary American author surely must feature a Papadoblé cocktail.
It is widely accepted that Ernest Hemingway created the heady concoction at a cocktail bar while residing in Cuba.
Anyway, the restaurant’s open-air wooden deck was comfortable and had a sea view complete with a bell to ring if you were lucky to spot the beloved dolphin, Jo-Jo.
The service was friendly, but our waitress was not well trained on the menu. The Conch Fingers were okay, but the batter was more fried than the conch meat, and the hamburger was a little overcooked.
That evening, we returned to the salt mill to fetch the items we had identified a few days earlier. The Bambarra Rum Shop is lovely. In addition to rum and rum cakes, you will find gift baskets, soaps, candles, and other boutique items.
After sampling several flavours and potencies of rum, we bought the Reserve and Coconut. The chocolate rum cake turned out to be one of, if not the best, from this region of the world! Don’t miss out on this.
Art Provo had the best price for the Sakaja brand of Ghost Pepper Sauce. Made with Scotch bonnet, a.k.a. ghost peppers, this condiment really packs heat, but it has the most wonderful flavour. This shop also sold paintings, sea shell sculptures, and pretty collectibles that would make nice gifts.
Not everything is made locally, so ask. I have concluded that they don’t just make things in TCI. They really put thought into making what they create the best.
Day 6, Thursday, December 4
We luxuriated in the sun and had a full-chill beach day! Walking Grace Bay, dipping in the glorious water, a bit of reading, and just relaxing were in order. On this day, we declared ‘doing nothing’ an official sport!
Day 7, Friday, December 5
Today, we explored the western coast of the island, side streets, and locales off Governor’s Rd. There are many large homes and lots in this area, and just a short ferry ride from Blue Haven Marina, on the easternmost coast of the island, are the private playgrounds of the rich and famous.
The Blue Haven Marina itself was beautifully kept, with gardens, walking paths, and Caribbean blue waters like no other marina I have ever seen. It sparkled brightly in the warm sun as the boats moved in and out.
Between the dock and the condominium/hotel is the Salt Bar and Grill. It’s clean, sleek, modern atmosphere makes it a great spot to grab a refreshment on a day of exploring or while awaiting the ferry.
Back at the Salt Mill, we went on a search for local art. Anna’s Art Gallery & Studio is owned by an artist and Irish expat.
She sells original paintings, prints, her own hand-made jewellery and silk scarves, whimsical dishes, and then some table linens and items not made by her.
She has a delightful disposition and is very eager to please. If you are looking for good-quality, creative, local art from Provo, make Anna’s your first stop.
Time for a late lunch, we traipsed over to Le Bouchon du Village. It’s on Regent Street, just a few metres from the main street.
What a delightful restaurant! Weather permitting, the roomy street-side patio offers peaceful alfresco dining.
Julien, the owner and French expat, was very friendly and attentive. The tiny kitchen turned out delicious French-inspired cuisine. The very tasty Tomato Conch Chowder, $10, and the top-quality, pungent garlic escargot, $14, were perfectly paired with the Touraine Sauvignon Blanc!
Day 8, Saturday, December 6
On a lovely, nearly cloud-free morning, we walked the beach and relaxed under the shade of the umbrellas.
The Ocean Club offers one of the nicest stretches of beach on Grace Bay. It is quiet enough to enjoy conversation or read a few books while listening to the waves.
To keep this truthful, I refer to OC vis-à-vis beaches only for reference purposes. All beaches in Providenciales are public and open to all, as long as you can reach them by some means.
We returned to the shark bite and walked to the Turtle Cove Marina, landing back inside seconds before a deluge descended. There were many locals there, many of whom remembered André from 17 years ago.
As we waited for the downpour to subside, we enjoyed Simone’s amazing banana daiquiris and conversation with the patrons huddled around the bar, several of whom remembered André from years ago.
We chose to go back to Le Bouchon for a last-night-in-provo romantic dinner, and the weather cooperated.
The grilled lobster, served with rice and carrots, was sweet and succulent. The sweetbreads, with demi glace, were rich and buttery.
Both married perfectly on the tongue with our bottle of Amiral Vernon Chablis. Typically, Caribbean lobster is not as sweet and flaky as northern Atlantic lobster.
For some reason, whether the water, the species, or the method of preparation, the juicy crustaceans we had here were equally delicious.
This was a perfect evening to cap off our sojourn to beautiful Providenciales. We were sad to leave and vowed to return as often as possible.
Unit 4202 at Ocean Club Resort was perfect for us, so our next visit will be predicated on the availability of this condominium!
